History of Sewing: 1920s Foundation Garments - A Close Look at Close-Fitting Linings

Are you less than slender? Or you simply want to wear a close-fitting frock? In  the 1920s, the "stout" woman or those who wanted to wear something more snugly fitted, the close-fitting lining was the foundation garment required.

The close-fitting lining (in contrast to waist linings and built-up linings) has lightly shaped seams along princess lines, and either a side-front or center front closing. Like the camisole linings and built-up linings, the close-fitting linings have two lengths.

When sewing your own close-fitting lining, start with a basic pattern. When fitting the sections of the lining by basting, fold and pin under the hem allowance along the intended closing, as at (a) in figure 12. If the lining is too loose, pin the seams deeper, as at (b) in figure 12. It is especially important in a close-fitting lining that the armholes be comfortably loose, since there is very little fullness or "give." So mark them where you think they should be trimmed deeper, as at (c) in figure 12.

 

When sewing the lining, you would sew hooks and eyes 1-1/2 or 2 inches apart along the closing, and then use bias binding or narrow hems to finish the neckline and armholes.

Was this fun? Next topic in this series - foundation slips!

History of Sewing - 1920s Foundation Garments - Waist Linings

In the 1920s, foundation garments were grouped into two main categories: waistline foundations and lining foundations. The topic of this post is to provide an overview of the lining foundations. And just to be clear, in general, foundation garments is not the same as lingerie, which is a different subject (although when we get into slips, the two subjects blur...).

Waist linings serve as both a protection to a dress (though particularly across the shoulders) as well as a means of holding a dress in its correct position, and as a foundation to which a skirt may be attached.

There are three general types of waist linings:

• Camisole or bodice lining
• Built-up or plain-waist lining
• Close-fitting lining

The camisole lining is simplest to make and was considered optimal for young girls and slender women (and also provides a dainty effect under sheer garments).

The built-up lining is preferable for the woman who is size 42 or larger.

The close-fitting lining is essential for dresses that fit closely on figures of all types, and for many types of dresses intended for the "stout" figure.

For one-piece dresses of sheer fabric (as opposed to two-piece dresses), the lining (regardless of type), should be extended to the full length of the dress as a slip, so as to eliminate a conspicuous break at the waistline.

I'll look more closely at the construction of these 1920s foundations garments in future posts.  Something to look forward to. :)