In this post, I examine the built-up lining more closely, which is more fitted than the camisole.
The built-up lining provides protection to a dress, particularly across the shoulders, or as a skirt foundation. It is also used as a foundation for a dress having a bloused effect.
The built-up lining can be changed in a number of ways to suit your needs:
- Length: at normal waistline or at the hip (drop waistline)
- Neckline: To match the dress
- Center front opening: add or omit (if omitted, make neckline wide or deep enough so that it is easy to slip the lining over the head).
- Degree of fit: placement and length of darts or dart-tucks (as illustrated in the following images)
For the average figure, a built-up lining at normal waistline length requires 1-1/8 yards; hip-length requires 1-3/8 yards. You could use a "regulation lining" pattern or plain foundation waist pattern.
As you can see in the images above, the built-up lining is more fitted than a camisole, with vertical tucks, dart-tucks, or darts at the hemline and shoulders in varying lengths. A foundation belt can be attached to the lower edge.