Waist linings serve as both a protection to a dress (though particularly across the shoulders) as well as a means of holding a dress in its correct position, and as a foundation to which a skirt may be attached.
There are three general types of waist linings:
- Camisole or bodice lining
- Built-up or plain-waist lining
- Close-fitting lining
The camisole lining is simplest to make and was considered optimal for young girls and slender women (and also provides a dainty effect under sheer garments).
The built-up lining is preferable for the woman who is size 42 or larger.
The close-fitting lining is essential for dresses that fit closely on figures of all types, and for many types of dresses intended for the "stout" figure.
For one-piece dresses of sheer fabric (as opposed to two-piece dresses), the lining (regardless of type), should be extended to the full length of the dress as a slip, so as to eliminate a conspicuous break at the waistline.
I'll look more closely at the construction of these 1920s foundations garments in future posts. Something to look forward to. :)