Before and After: Double Duty from a Single Remnant!

It has been a while since I last posted a "Before and After", and this is a marvelous one! My customer Mark McNulty (Irish fashion designer and illustrator extraordinaire!) got great mileage from two patterns and a single remnant of fabric for 4 Euro!

The Pattern: Simplicity 2895 (1940s)

The Results: With this pattern and the fabric remnant, Mark made a beautiful dress for his younger sister. I love it! The swirly, twirly ballerina length is perfect.

It wasn't a perfect fit, though, for his sister, who is 6'1" (and looks like a fashion model, don't you think?). So he took a pattern from the 1960s and was determined to re-purpose the fabric into a jacket! 


The Pattern: McCall's 7593 (1960s)

The Results: He says, "I absolutely fried my brain trying to lay out the pieces of the fabric and trying to get the patterns to match for this sprig little blazer. After a lot of pulling hair, it worked and i even got two cute little bias cut pockets into it too!" I love the lapel pin - adds a dash of class!

Pocket close-up (I think making the pockets bias-cut was totally inspired):

Neat use of hooks-and-eyes make for a slim closing:

Mark, as always, is inspired by fashion. You can see a post about a recent winning illustration of his here. And if you are on Instagram, you can follow him here.

1960s Mod Neutrals from Young Designer Gerald McCann

Neutral colors are huge this winter season, so these two Mod fashions from London designer Gerald McCann and the late 1960s seem especially timely. Even down to the contrasting plaid revers and peek-a-boo pleat on the dress. I love the buttons and bow. Designed for Butterick patterns, both are very "Carnaby Street" in their style and totally hip. And look at their shoes - now are those fun, or what?

1960s Winter Fashion from Young Designer Gayle Kirkpatrick

Today let's take a peek at winter fashion from 1966. Gayle Kirkpatrick was a hot "In" designer from the mid-60s to the late 1970s. During that time, he won a Coty Award, and designed for Butterick, among many other things. Here are a couple of his designs for Butterick from 1966.

Coatdress Butterick 4204

The coatdress could be sewn to be a coat or a dress (or both!). In this interpretation, sewn in wide wale corduroy, it definitely looks like a coat, with military details.

The double image below pairs Butterick 4204 with Gayle Kirkpatrick's Blouse and Suit Butterick 4205 (looking darn cute and perfectly Mod in paisley). Note the "power stance" of the models. No demure crossing of legs in the youthful revolution of the Mod years!

Originator Sketch - Spring 1946: Accenting with Graduated Folds

What an intriguing idea is illustrated in this page from the Spring 1946 Originator! Pockets with graduated folds or bands accent a skirt, a jacket, and a blouse. Very inspiring and eye-catching too. :) On the skirt, I like how the folds or bands echo the pleats of the skirt - nice touch! On the jacket they they serve to narrow the hips, I think. The blouse is unusual, because a side opening breast pocket is rare - but I like how it hides the pocket while adding interest to the blouse. Great ideas!

Originator Sketch - 1946 Spring - Accenting with Stitch Embroidery and Tiny Buttons

Adding a bit of a faux quilting effect, this inventive approach to adding some tiny sparkles to a dress or jacket is rather fun! You could substitute the tiny colored buttons with beads, sequins, whatever suits you. Be inspired!

1955 Couture Design - Dior Dress and Stole-Jacket

Dior's pale beige cheviot two-piece dress (sketch, below) from 1955 has a high turtle neck and wonderful big stole-jacket that closes with a double row of buttons.

And here it is to in the American adaptation, looking pretty darn similar. I'm not sure what to make of the stole-jacket. What do you think?

1955 Givenchy Suit - American Style

This suit by Givenchy from 1955 has a back-dipping silhouette, with a distinctive semi-detached band that hangs free from the jacket at center back.

The American adaptation, in linen-like silk, modifies the jacket's back belt dip (you can see it, just look for that small gap) and shortens the sleeves to 3/4 length.

Slim and chic!

Back to School: Elementary School Fashion from 1949

We can hardly look at back-to-school fashion for high school and college and NOT look at elementary school! Whether you call it elementary school, grade school, or primary school, the younger set have their fashion tastes too.

A short wool jacket and flared wool skirt team up nicely for school days. The bright cotton flannel blouse mirrors the flannelette that lines the jacket.

This "study and play" dress of cotton has puff sleeves, flared skirt, and peter pan collar.

This velveteen jumper and blouse of batiste make a pretty party ensemble.

A plaid skirt teams up with a sweater for the perfect school outfit. Don't you love her matching socks and hair ribbons?

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - Refashion a Smart Jacket

As long as we are on the subject of refashioning old clothes into new, this post from Ruth Wyeth Spears and the 1920s is very timely! In this article, Ruth describes how to make a new "mannish" jacket for yourself from an old jacket of your husband or brother or dad. She describes two ways to go about it, depending on the size of the old jacket you are working with and the size you need.

Autumn is the perfect time for tailored jackets and blazers, so definitely give this a try!

Originator Sketch - Bows and Cut-Aways

This is a great concept, and one that I see from time to time in vintage patterns from other decades. A jacket has the hemline or neckline cut-away so that the garment underneath (skirt, blouse, or dress) is exposed, with a bow or other detail that appears to be one with the outer garment. It always adds chic sophistication.

I love those extra deep, wide cuffs on the bolero. And while both skirts are cute, I love the one on the left, with its shaped high waist above the bow. Fabulous!

Back to School - College Fashion from 1949

Check out this wonderful back-to-school fashion for the college-bound, straight from 1949 and Woman's Day magazine. This gal is starting the school year with a fine collegiate wardrobe of tea-length skirts, snug jackets with weskit points, and fun boxy toppers.

This boxy topper (with a belt or not) has a wind-breaking collar and useful big pockets.  I love that pose. :)

Perfect for all uses - a suit made of a jacket with weskit points and a trouser-pleated skirt in wool.

Here is the same jacket & skirt in cotton velveteen, making the perfect "date suit". Her college date is wearing a suit too. ;)

 

This fabulous, sporty jerkin of bright wool felt  is made by leaving the sleeves out of the boxy topper pattern and adding a martingale belt in back. It makes a great warm addition to layer over sweaters and a wool skirt.

This shirtwaist dress in rayon is a "campus classic" for every day. So demure! Note the flash of color with the handkerchief in the breast pocket - nice touch!

Originator Sketch - Spring 1946 - Scalloped Details Add Elegance

I have to admit, the top-stitched scalloped detailing in this sketch is very inspiring. I love it!

1970s Sportive Style from Christian Dior and Vogue!

Coordinated outfits were immensely popular in the 1970s. They would stretch your dollars and your wardrobe with style and these examples from February 1973 are no exception!

 

In the background, it's the "Very Easy Vogue" 8474 pattern of three quarter length cardigan jacket with an A-line skirt and wide, straight slacks. In front is Vogue Paris Original 2816, Christian Dior's easy elegance of classic belted suit with casual jacket over an A-line box-pleated skirt.

 

If these strike your fancy, you can find Vogue 8474 in the following Etsy shops:

• Classic Cabin
• Baubles And Kitsch
• Ardythes Orphans
• Mrs Wooster

 I couldn't find Vogue 2816, but there are other, similar patterns from Vogue and Christian Dior available, if you don't mind browsing.

 

And while you're browsing Etsy, be sure to pick up an authentic pair of 1970s Christian Dior sunglasses:

Sorocco

And a 1970s Christian Dior hat!

 

 

Vintage Dust Shop

February 1973 - Taking Up the Slacks with Vogue Fashion!

Stay warm in a squall with this great fashion from February 1973 and Vogue!

On the left, Vogue 2814, Yves Saint Laurent's topper with outsized flap patch pockets, combined with a belted tunic top and wonderfully wide pants. On the right, Vogue 8475, a blouson jacket with raglan sleeves, tailored shirt, and flared wide-leg pants. Fab!

It's Time to Celebrate All Things Scottish!

St Andrew's Day is coming up at the end of this month (November 30th to be precise), so I've decided to use the whole month of November to honor this patron saint of Scotland by celebrating all things Scottish in my shop! 

Be watching for postings of patterns that either feature designs for, or simply illustrate patterns with, plaids, kilts, and hats such as tam o'shanters and glengarries.

Here is a peek of some bonnie things to come for the lasses and the wee lasses!

 

1950s Refashion - Another Fur Remodel Yields Cute Results

While this refashion involves a real fur coat, don't let that stop you from consider faux fur fabrics for a fun and very 1950s short coat!

The refashion started with an old "dyed beaver coney coat" that was out of style. For those not familiar with it, coney is another word for rabbit. :)

 

 

The coat was turned into this wonderful boxy topper, with easy fullness, a natural shoulder, and perfect for wearing anywhere! :)

 

1950s Refashion - From Outdated Topper to a Fresh Box Jacket

It's time another refashion from 1950! In this one, an old "topper" was converted into a fashionable box jacket by working with its existing lines.

As shown in the diagram, the box jacket was created from the topper by doing the following:

• The shoulder line was narrowed, lowered, and rounded
• Sleeve width was reduced
• Roll-back cuffs were made by turning under a wide hem and top-stitching the new sleeve edge
• Lining was cut off to meet the raw edge inside the sleeves
• Back fullness was taken in
• Patch pockets were cut from the bottom of the topper and the edge hemmed. Pockets were set at the hemline.

And here is the final result!

A belt adds the finishing touch! And don't forget your gloves. ;)

Spotted in a Shop Window - Classy Short Jacket

Iridescent peacock colors make this classy short jacket glamorous enough for evening. Spotted in the shop window of Nina McLemore in downtown Seattle. Note the turned-up collar, turn-back wing cuffs at bracelet length, and free opening. Very reminiscent of the 50s. Eye-catching fashion!