In Search of Style: 1960s Chic Evening Tunic

This Vogue 6177 sewing pattern from 1963 is a marvelously versatile pattern, going from beach cover-up to robe, to dress, to hostess or lounging gown. It is one of those patterns that is only limited by your imagination!

Tucked inside the envelope was this clipping that features an elegant gown and an evening skirt and long tunic that was clearly the inspiration for the sewist. The Vogue pattern matches the long tunic on the right extremely well. With its side front tie closing, collarless V-neckline, slim silhouette, and touch of oriental mystique, it's a very close match. And very inspiring!

Jaunty 1930s Dresses with Back Fullness

These dresses from the December 1936 McCall's magazine look thoroughly jaunty. From the front, the bodice, waistline, and hip fit smoothly. But in back, the skirt flaunts its fullness. Who wouldn't love to have one of these back-flared frocks?

Love those hats, too!

1929: Ethnic Prints for Spring

Ethnic prints are popular this spring, so it seems very appropriate to post this striking image from Fashion Service Woman's Institute Magazine and March 1929. It is a beautiful advertisement that features the "Indu-Chi" series of fabrics, "Parisian in design, latin in feeling, and inspired by the vigorous, joyful, decorative embroideries of Hungarian peasant festival costumes." Simply gorgeous.

Happy Mother's Day: Mother-Daughter Fashion from the Mid-1940s

With Mother's Day only a few days away, it seems timely to post about that wonderful fashion trend of the 1940s and 1950s, Mother-Daughter fashion! This trend to dress mothers and daughters in matching outfits certainly provided charm for the ladies in the family. In this post, I feature mother-daughter dresses from the mid-1940s that are perfect for spring and summer.

Mother Fashion - Simplicity 1553

Daughter Fashion - Simplicity 2068

A dirndl skirt in swing length and artfully puffed short sleeves - very nice! Add sash ties or not. The style looks especially cute when contrasting fabrics are used. I rather prefer view 2, myself. :)

Polka Dots Go Mod

In my last post, I featured a vintage sewing pattern and polka dot fabric from the 1930s. Very lovely and so charming! In this post, I pull you 30 years later to the mid-1960s, when Mod fashion was just getting started. These images, also featuring sewing patterns sewn with polka dot fabric, are from a Vogue Pattern magazine, April-May 1965 issue. Enjoy and be inspired!

Vogue 6470: Polka dots certainly pop in this outfit. I love the 3/4-length bell sleeves. Note the just-above-ankle length of the flared pants. I find the model's big hair rather mind-blowing. She looks like a Barbie doll!

Vogue 6413: Polka dots gone large.

 Vogue 6461: Polka dots with stripes - psychedelic!

Vogue 6462:  Polka dots with plaid!

In Search of Style: Fabric for a 1930s "Dress Hit of the Year"

This wonderful dress from the 1930s and Superior Patterns of Sears, Roebuck & Co has charming style and was evidently quite popular!

Superior 460

Tucked in the envelope was a page from the fabric section of the Sears catalog, featuring silk and rayon fabric and several dress patterns. And there in the upper right corner is the very same dress, in a charming dotted print rayon.

The text for the pattern states "The Dress Hit of the Year". And: "A stunning pattern! At the very top of the style ladder! Featuring a youthful collar and a smart button trim. So simple it can be made with the least possible fuss. A truly versatile style; can be worn almost everywhere! Because it is a Sears  pattern you're assured a perfect fit and absolute comfort." Well! Enough said!

And here is the back side of the page:

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - A Frock Trimmed with Self-Fabric Plaits

While this tip from Ruth Wyeth Spears and the 1920s describes a plaited (pleated) trimming for a "young girl's frock", I think this excellent tip would also apply to a frock for any age!

In her usual marvelous style, Ruth guides her home sewists with clear illustrations and precise steps. And note her tip for the novel feature of flipping the hem to the outside and trimming it in place with the plaiting (pleating). So clever and so simple - I love it!

Ruth recommends a crisp fabric as most effective, and says the sketch is of "changeable pink taffeta". I can picture this frock in pink taffeta - can you?

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s: A Ruffled Summer Frock with Picoted Edges

While Ruth Wyeth Spears feels that this style is for the "sub-deb" (that is, sub-debutante, so pre-teen girl), I think this very feminine summer frock would be lovely fashion for almost any age. Aside from sewing this frock from soft georgette, Ruth describes a technique for creating a picoted edge - very clever, our Ruth!

To learn more about hemstitching (which in the 1920s was evidently something the home sewists paid for, rather than created themselves) that you can create yourself, check out this very informative Youtube video from Professor Pincushion.

In Search of Style & Scraps from the Past: A Dress Sewn from a Sears Catalog Pattern

It's the early 1940s, and where would you shop for a "Superior" pattern for an afternoon dress & bolero, as well as the fabric? Why, the Sears Roebuck catalog, of course! Today's finds were in a pattern from the early 1940s, and included both the catalog page that illustrates the pattern, and scraps of fabric from the resulting sewing project!

First, here is the pattern:

"Shop at Sears for Fashion-Right Fabrics and Patterns"

In Search of Style 

And here is the page from the Sears, Roebuck & Co catalog that was tucked in the pattern:

Note that the ensemble on the model is the very same pattern! And fabric at only 49 cents a yard! Which fabric swatch do you like? I actually like blue print that is on the model, though all the patterns are pretty. :)

Here is a close-up from the pattern instructions. Note the "peek-a-boo" breast pockets on the bolero:

Scraps from the Past

Also inserted in the pattern were these lovely rayon scraps (yes, rayon!). I can so visualize this ensemble in this wonderful floral pattern on a soft taupe-brown.

I'd say it is inspiring fashion from the 1940s and Sears!

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s: Teen's Petal-Skirted Party Dress

If you need a 1920s-style party frock for a teen girl, this tip from Ruth Wyeth Spears describes how to whip up a lovely petal-skirted dress.  Just get a few yards of crepe de chine in a lovely color and in no time you can have your girl looking chic for a summer party! The simplicity of the design amazes me - Ruth's techniques require no pattern and allow you to fit the dress to wearer. Don't be held back by the idea that this is a young girl's dress - I think it would work for any age!

As an interesting aside, girls remained girls much longer in the 1920s. Note how Ruth Wyeth Spears refers to "young girl" and "young daughter" in this sewing tip, but defines that as 16 to 18 years! Of course, back then sizes were defined in "years" as well. :)

Scraps from the Past: Sunny Summer Wartime Frock

The pattern: Du Barry 5791 (1944)

I love how the original owner wrote her name on the pattern, and drew an arrow to the version that she sewed. Someone also wrote in very faint pencil vertically next to "This view": "no geathers will bring back" - a somewhat mystifying statement, I can only guess at what was meant. The handwriting is different from the writing in ink, so it may have been someone else.

The scrap: This floral cotton print is just a smidgeon of a scrap that was tucked inside this vintage pattern from the war years. But it is still enough to let us envision this frock in a summery print of blue flowers with pink and green bits. It paints a very pretty and sunny picture!

Before and After: Double Duty from a Single Remnant!

It has been a while since I last posted a "Before and After", and this is a marvelous one! My customer Mark McNulty (Irish fashion designer and illustrator extraordinaire!) got great mileage from two patterns and a single remnant of fabric for 4 Euro!

The Pattern: Simplicity 2895 (1940s)

The Results: With this pattern and the fabric remnant, Mark made a beautiful dress for his younger sister. I love it! The swirly, twirly ballerina length is perfect.

It wasn't a perfect fit, though, for his sister, who is 6'1" (and looks like a fashion model, don't you think?). So he took a pattern from the 1960s and was determined to re-purpose the fabric into a jacket! 


The Pattern: McCall's 7593 (1960s)

The Results: He says, "I absolutely fried my brain trying to lay out the pieces of the fabric and trying to get the patterns to match for this sprig little blazer. After a lot of pulling hair, it worked and i even got two cute little bias cut pockets into it too!" I love the lapel pin - adds a dash of class!

Pocket close-up (I think making the pockets bias-cut was totally inspired):

Neat use of hooks-and-eyes make for a slim closing:

Mark, as always, is inspired by fashion. You can see a post about a recent winning illustration of his here. And if you are on Instagram, you can follow him here.

The Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge 2015: Update on Project 1

My first project for the Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge 2015 has begun! This past weekend I cut a muslin version of the dress and I have to admit - really, is a muslin necessary? But even a long straight waist-less dress deserves a proper fitting. :). Here are the pattern pieces cut from muslin, laid out on my living room floor. (To refresh your memory on what I am sewing, look at this earlier post.)

Notice all the printing on this early 1920s pattern from McCall Patterns. What makes it fascinating to me is that all the instructional information (how to lay the pieces on the fabric in preparation before cutting, how to sew the pattern, and other helpful information) are ALL on the printed patterns. Here are some close-ups.

Here are the guideline diagrams for laying the pattern pieces on the fabric.

Here are the actual sewing instructions - just four simple steps and a single diagram!

And also illustrated are inspiring possible combinations of fabric and ornamentation for the dress. I would love to try the dress on the far left, which is accented with hand embroidery or beads. The other combinations are equally interesting, though. Note how the embroidery pattern number used in the illustration is provided below each dress. Now if only I could order those! One thing that strikes me is just how versatile this basic dress pattern is - it looks perfect for dressing up or dressing down. :)

The other main pattern piece illustrates "how to" tips on binding a slash opening, finishing a plain hem, finishing a hem with seam binding, general seam finishing tips, how to make a bias binding, how to make a bias underfacing, and how to make tailor's tacks. You will notice that the pattern includes no facings (typical), so I will be using those skills to face the neckline and sleeves with bias binding. I'm not sure yet if I'll make the binding or buy it.

The pattern pieces have a skinny 3/8 inch seam allowance throughout, with the exception of a widening to a full inch through the hips, in case more room is needed there. So thoughtful. :) And the dress provides a generous 3-inch hem.

I'll keep you posted on the fitting!

Pattern of the Week: Another Smocked Frock from the 1920s

My pattern of the week features this wonderful pattern from the 1920s for a girl's frock (size 10) that is structured with honeycomb smocking! If you don't want to tackle smocking, the pattern includes instructions for using shirring instead.

This pattern reminds me of a tip from the 1920s that I posted previously, in which Ruth Wyeth Spears describes how to accent a frock with smocking.

Both use honeycomb smocking to shape the fabric artfully and provide structure without darts or yokes or bands. Inspiring, don't you think?

The Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge 2015 - My First Project

A dress from the 1920s is going to be my first project for the Vintage Sewing Pattern Pledge! I have the pattern for a basic dress, and the fabric, which is this rich terra cotta crepe de chine. I've bought some lightweight muslin so that I can sew a toile/muslin in preparation, although it doesn't seem like much alteration is going to be needed.

The dress has an inset and short scarf or tie, and I have not yet settled on what I want to use for those. Decisions, decisions! The dress pattern includes a godet, but I am not inspired to add it. I will think on that too. :) I do want to make a hat to match, though, one from RuthWyeth Spears' tips!

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s: A Smocked Frock!

How many of you have tried your hand at smocking? In this tip from Ruth Wyeth Spears, frock fullness is artfully "gathered" with honeycomb smocking at the neckline and the hips. Using a typical technique for Ruth, you apply the smocking before you cut the dress. And as usual, Ruth's clear instructions make it look easy!

Smocking is actually a wonderful technique and there are magazines out there that are devoted solely to the art, especially in Australia, the UK, Canada, and South Africa, full of very cute smocking patterns.  Vintage patterns for smocked items usually included transfers that consisted of the dots that Ruth describes, which simplified hand marking the dots. Nowadays, there are pleating machines for smocking that make it even simpler.

But you don't need a smocking dots transfer or a machine to add smocking. Just follow Ruth's instructions to be successful!

Happy smocking!

1946 Originator Sketch: Artful Gathers Create Beautiful Frocks

While I am tempted to call it smocking, I suspect these frocks illustrate the use of shirring to artfully gather fabric, for a front peplum in one case and a side cascading drape in the other. Regardless, such clever, creative ideas result in beautiful frocks. Delicious!

Spotted in a Shop Window: Diagonal Details Make the Dress

Simple yet elegant sheath, spotted in the window of Nordstrom in downtown Seattle. I love all the diagonal folds, with the skirt mirroring the bodice. I am not sure why putting the mannequin in a cage was considered creative, but it doesn't diminish the eye-catching style of this elegant little dress. That is a beautiful blue, too.

1960s Mod Neutrals from Young Designer Gerald McCann

Neutral colors are huge this winter season, so these two Mod fashions from London designer Gerald McCann and the late 1960s seem especially timely. Even down to the contrasting plaid revers and peek-a-boo pleat on the dress. I love the buttons and bow. Designed for Butterick patterns, both are very "Carnaby Street" in their style and totally hip. And look at their shoes - now are those fun, or what?

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - Adding a Crystal Beaded Accent to Your Chiffon Dinner Frock

Imagine this dinner frock in "crayon blue chiffon" and then add this beaded bow knot, bead by bead! Ruth Wyeth Spears tells you how in this very fine tip from the 1920s. The instructions look like a snap (well, a relative snap) and I love that "simple one-piece dress" with shirred fullness at the sides. Delightful!

Enjoy!