1946 Originator Sketch: Artful Gathers Create Beautiful Frocks

While I am tempted to call it smocking, I suspect these frocks illustrate the use of shirring to artfully gather fabric, for a front peplum in one case and a side cascading drape in the other. Regardless, such clever, creative ideas result in beautiful frocks. Delicious!

1946 Originator Sketch: Tailor a Coat with Pin Tucks

Ah, my favorite - pin tucks! These coats feature fan-shaped tucks that taper to produce a small waistline. Note the differences in collars and pockets. Inspiring!

';lijlh;

1940s Originator Sketch - Blouses with the Accent on the Shoulders

Here is a trio of lovely blouses from 1946, trimmed with cord, lace, and top-stitching to set them apart. These are interesting accents with a primary focus on the shoulders. In typical 40s fashion, they work to extend the shoulders, resulting in "power shoulders". Do you have a favorite?

Top-stitching is always a favorite of mine, but I think the blouse with the cord trim captures my imagination the most. :)

1940s Originator Sketch - Cocktail Dresses

Ooooo la la! These stunning cocktail dresses feature cascading drapes topped with bows. Did you notice that both dresses dip lower in the back? Fabulous eye candy!

Look at the details carefully - intriguing!

1946 Originator Sketch - Saddle Yokes Provide Smart Details

This Originator sketch features saddle yokes. I first discovered saddle yokes in vintage patterns and I must say that I find them a rather wonderful way to construct a dress or blouse. The saddle yoke combines the sleeve and the yoke into one piece.

This sketch features pleated sleeves with the saddles yokes, which looks very pretty. And the saddle yokes are also one-in-piece with center front bands or panels, with the edges trimmed with saddle stitches. Additional cleverness! I love how the center fronts extend into the skirts of the dresses - very smart details. :)

Originator Sketch - Spring 1946: Accenting with Graduated Folds

What an intriguing idea is illustrated in this page from the Spring 1946 Originator! Pockets with graduated folds or bands accent a skirt, a jacket, and a blouse. Very inspiring and eye-catching too. :) On the skirt, I like how the folds or bands echo the pleats of the skirt - nice touch! On the jacket they they serve to narrow the hips, I think. The blouse is unusual, because a side opening breast pocket is rare - but I like how it hides the pocket while adding interest to the blouse. Great ideas!

Originator Sketch - 1946 Spring - Accenting with Stitch Embroidery and Tiny Buttons

Adding a bit of a faux quilting effect, this inventive approach to adding some tiny sparkles to a dress or jacket is rather fun! You could substitute the tiny colored buttons with beads, sequins, whatever suits you. Be inspired!

Originator Sketch - Spring 1946 - Fan-shaped Tucks & Pleats

Fan pleats and fan tucks are such an elegant method for releasing fabric softly, I'm surprised they aren't used more often. It's a treat when I find them in vintage patterns, typically for blouses and dresses, and most often at the neckline or shoulders. This sketch provides true inspiration!

1940s Originator Sketch - Eye-Catching Blouse Details

Here is another page of inspiring fashion from the 1940s, this time details for blouses! And I have to admit that 1940s (and 1950s) produced some of the best blouse designs ever. This collection demonstrates artful use of pin tucks, soft inverted pleats, and eye-catching use of reverse darts accented with fixed bows. Superb!

Originator Sketch - Bows and Cut-Aways

This is a great concept, and one that I see from time to time in vintage patterns from other decades. A jacket has the hemline or neckline cut-away so that the garment underneath (skirt, blouse, or dress) is exposed, with a bow or other detail that appears to be one with the outer garment. It always adds chic sophistication.

I love those extra deep, wide cuffs on the bolero. And while both skirts are cute, I love the one on the left, with its shaped high waist above the bow. Fabulous!

Originator Sketch - Gowns That Drape and Dazzle

This Originator sketch from Spring 1946 features two beautiful concepts for evening wear, each featuring draping.

On the left is a full-skirted evening gown with a cowl-like drape just left of center front and below the knees in the skirt. A bit subtle, I think! The skirt is also accented with flowing sequins or bead embroidery.

On the right, a cascading drape on the right hip and small cowl-like drape above the right knee add elegance to this slim frock for dinner or afternoon wear. Sequins or bead embroidery add extra spark & dazzle.

Note that the full-skirted evening gown has a sheer yoke and sleeves, and a decollete under-bodice with sweetheart neckline. Gorgeous!

Originator Sketch - Spring 1946 - Scalloped Details Add Elegance

I have to admit, the top-stitched scalloped detailing in this sketch is very inspiring. I love it!

Originator Sketch - Spring 1946 - Trimming with Braid and Grosgrain Ribbon

While braid or ribbon trim on edges is a common accent technique throughout the decades, the rows of descending length make an architectural statement. Interesting.

Originator Sketch - Spring 1946 - Fringe & Pleating Accents

From the Spring 1946 "Originator" (Volume V) is this design inspiration for trimming with fringe and pleating.

For myself, I like the pleating more than the fringe. The 3/4-length sleeves of the jacket are rather chic with their French buttoned cuffs.

The Background

The Originator is a rare series of booklets that describes itself as providing "unique fashion hints, modern trends, and ideas with variations smartly and practically applied." Fashion editor for this volume is Florence Hort.

The company (Originator Publishing Company) was based in New York and began in the fall of 1945, lasting until the early 1950s. It provided current fashion sketches and prided itself on forecasting fashion trends and being a handbook of new ideas. The company did go on to publish sewing patterns, which are even rarer than the booklets.

That is all I know, and this is the only volume that I own, but I am happy to share! :)