Mid 1950s - Sheath and Matching Jacket are a Study in Gray

Mmmmm - she looks pleased, and who wouldn't in this fine gray sheath with a matching cute short jacket? I love that little belt closing in the front.

Note the notched cuffs on the fitted jacket - the small details can add such class. :)

Spotted in a Shop Window - Crisp Sunny Ensemble

This sunny ensemble spotted in the shop window of Brooks Brothers has so many classic elements to love - a pert, slim linen skirt, crisp white blouse with wing collar and wing cuffs, and a navy blue sweater that sets everything off to perfection.

Some style is simply timeless!

In Search of Style: A Dreamy Formal Gown

Prom dresses are in the fashion news right now, so I think this is a great time to post this clipping I found in a pattern that I listed in my shop this week.

Here is what our later 1940s seamstress was looking for, a tremendously dreamy, gorgeous gown. Note the details:

• Full skirt topped with a froth of net
• Snug strapless top with contoured princess seams and front button closing
• A mere shrug over the shoulders with deep cuffs

Here is the pattern that it was tucked into, Butterick 4872 from 1949. It comes amazingly close, don't you think? Check the details and compare:

• Very full skirt is separate from the top. 
• Top is dart-fitted and strapless, with front button closing
• Very cropped bolero that borders on being a shrug, with deep wing cuffs

 

 

Also tucked in the pattern was a special bonus - two receipts! One for 5 yards of net (she definitely wanted that luscious, gauzy froth), and the other for two spools of thread.

 

On the reverse side of the dress clipping is this rather stunning weskit-styled top, with fabulous lacy-crocheted wing collar, matching lacy-crocheted points at the waistline, and 3/4 length sleeves with beautiful wing cuffs. Totally spell-binding style.

 

Early 1950s "Costume Suits" - So Elegant and Chic

Crisp points add flair to these costume suits from 1951. What makes a women's suit a "costume" suit? Primarily, the costume suit is high style - more feminine and dressy than the traditional man-tailored two-piece suit. It can be worn wherever a dress can be worn, yet is suit-worthy for occasions that call for a more business-like appearance.

In both costume suits illustrated below, wing points at collars and cuffs are eye-catching and provide sharp style over a slim sheath. The tunic-length topper & dress ensemble is a fabulous fitted look, while the cropped jacket  with a slim skirt is closer to a traditional suit but has bolder, more dramatic flair.

 

These costume suits provide simply superb 1950s style. And note the hat choices for each suit - they're perfect. :)

Spotted in a Shop Window - Classy Short Jacket

Iridescent peacock colors make this classy short jacket glamorous enough for evening. Spotted in the shop window of Nina McLemore in downtown Seattle. Note the turned-up collar, turn-back wing cuffs at bracelet length, and free opening. Very reminiscent of the 50s. Eye-catching fashion!

Vintage Style Trends: Detachable Collars and Cuffs

Detachable collars and cuffs were so popular in the last century (it feels weird to write about it that way), beginning in the 1940s but particularly popular in the 1950s, and lasting through the 60s and 70s and beyond. Detachable collars and cuffs were a mainstay of the wardrobe. The advantages, aside from adding striking color accent, were extension of a small wardrobe by adding variety, and reduction in cleaning costs and effort. The notched and wing varieties of collar and cuffs were extremely popular.

There are 3 variations of the detachable collar and cuffs:

• Over-collar and over-cuffs added to garment with single collar and cuffs
• Under-collar and under-cuffs added to garment with single collar and cuffs
• Collar and cuffs added to collarless and cuff-less garment

The Technique

The technique used for detachable collars and cuffs was to edge the collar or cuff with bias binding. That bound edge was then attached to the garment by simply whip-stitching in place. It is that simple. No snaps, no buttons, no hooks-and-eyes. It is a  rather uncomplicated, simple method, it seems to me!

Here are a couple of examples of detachable collars & cuffs from magazine advertisements of the 1950s:

The following patterns illustrate the over-collar and over-cuffs added to garment with single collar and cuffs:

The following pattern illustrates the less common method of under-collar and under-cuffs added to garment with single collar and cuffs:

The following patterns illustrate the collar and cuffs added to a collarless and cuff-less garment:

A popular item in the 1950s was the "accessory dress", which was purposefully collarless and cuff-less. The sewing pattern provided several styles of collars and cuffs with which to "change up" your look. Here is a great example:

Contrast Collars and Cuffs

The use of contrast collars and cuffs to add drama and eye-appeal to a dress or ensemble has been popular throughout the decades, but especially popular in the 1950s. White was (and still is) the most popular and the most compelling contrast.

Feast your eyes on these examples from print sources and vintage patterns. Note the popular wing cuffs, which add extra flair.

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You can't deny that even this Vogue designer dress from the 1990s is more dramatic and striking with contrast collar and cuffs.

Have you ever sewn a dress with contrast collar and cuffs?