Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s: The Popular New Jumper Dress!

Well this tip is an historical eye-opener! The jumper (as we know it in the USA) is a hot couture item, and I must admit that a drop-waist jumper is an intriguing fashion. Ruth provides a pattern for sewing your own jumper, along a suggestion that this fashion item provides splendid opportunities for "make overs" or re-fashions. I couldn't agree more!

1950s Robe Re-fashion - From Princess to Double-Breasted

Ready for another robe re-fashion from the 1950s? In this re-fashion, the robe (in the small inset in this image below) was too tight and too short, but with plenty of fabric that made it worth a re-fashion. The original is princess style, and the re-fashion changes it into a double-breasted robe that is longer and wider.

What was done? The sleeves, collar, and center front panels were removed. The pattern in the diagram below was used to create new front panels by tracing around the old ones, adding one inch to each side, and four inches to the length. The diagram shows how the top of the new panels were shaped to form a notched lapel collar. Two yards of rayon faille were used to create the new front panels, which are faced. The rest of the robe was lengthened with a four-inch faille band. The robe was also trimmed with six faille-covered buttons. Each sleeve was widened by inserting a two-inch wide strip cut from the old panel under the arm, altering the armhole to fit. Narrow faille cuffs were added.

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - Refashion a Smart Jacket

As long as we are on the subject of refashioning old clothes into new, this post from Ruth Wyeth Spears and the 1920s is very timely! In this article, Ruth describes how to make a new "mannish" jacket for yourself from an old jacket of your husband or brother or dad. She describes two ways to go about it, depending on the size of the old jacket you are working with and the size you need.

Autumn is the perfect time for tailored jackets and blazers, so definitely give this a try!

Mid-50s Refashion - From Robe to Lounging Jacket

Did you ever want a lounging jacket? Here is an inspiring re-fashion story from the 1950s, in which a robe is converted into a elegant lounging jacket. By replacing frayed sections and adding new fabric, you have a smartly re-styled garment!

Before: a "too short, red flannel robe with worn-out elbows"

After: a smartly-styled lounging jacket

The How: The sleeves, collar, and pocket facings of the robe were removed and the sleeve seams opened. Each sleeve was cut in two lengthwise, to use as a pattern for new sleeves. The robe was cut shorter, to finger-tip length. From the cut-off fabric, new sleeves were cut. One yard of black velveteen was used to make new facings (using the old as a cutting guide). New patterns were worked out for the collar and cuffs (diagram below). Patch pockets and a breast patch pocket were made.

Now if I only had enough time to lounge, and in such style!

1950s Refashion - Trimming a Circle Skirt Down to a Slim Skirt

Before: A tea-length full circle skirt in black bengaline from the late 1940s. Evidently it was "too wide" and "too long"!

The Changes: The original waistband was removed, the skirt turned so that the side seams became center front and back seams. Front yokes, back yokes and kick pleat insert were cut from the rest of the fabric. The illustration shows how easy it was. A cuff was sewn into the seams where the yokes join the skirt pieces. A back zipper closing was inserted at the center back seam of the skirt yoke, and the waist was finished with belting. Easy-peasy! ;)

After: Rather elegant, I must say!

1950s Refashion - Remodeling a Front Draped Skirt into a Slim Skirt

This is such an interesting refashion from 1951!

Before: A dress with a front-draped ("harem-drape") skirt that had stretched out of shape.

After: Fabric was folded and seamed 4 inches below the waist to create a peg-pocket line that slants down toward the side seams. To make peg pockets, the fabric inside the fold at each side was cut and a pocket lining of taffeta was inserted.

A slim, crisp silhouette, with intriguing, sharp style!

1951 Re-Fashion - Reviving an Evening Gown!

This re-fashion from 1951 focuses on re-draping and re-cutting a problem dress into a fresh, new silhouette.

An evening gown (from the late 1940s, I'm guessing) with weary-looking panniers is converted into this fresh, new dinner dress with a slimmer, shorter skirt. The extra fabric in the old skirt enabled the addition of a center inverted pleat. The neckline was cut a bit lower and wider, both front and back. Scraps from the skirt faced the neckline and provided enough fabric for a wide matching belt. Delightful results!

1950s Refashion - Another Fur Remodel Yields Cute Results

While this refashion involves a real fur coat, don't let that stop you from consider faux fur fabrics for a fun and very 1950s short coat!

The refashion started with an old "dyed beaver coney coat" that was out of style. For those not familiar with it, coney is another word for rabbit. :)

 

 

The coat was turned into this wonderful boxy topper, with easy fullness, a natural shoulder, and perfect for wearing anywhere! :)

 

1950s Refashion - Fur Coat Remodeled into a Cape-Stole

While real fur coats are a current fashion heresy, nonetheless, they were definitely a sign of wealth and high fashion in the 1940s and 1950s (well, and in a lot of decades). In this 1950 refashion, a worn out fur coat from the 1940s or older (it's hard to tell) is remodeled into this chic cape-stole, using a Woman's Day 3269 sewing pattern. The pattern was especially designed for real fur and actually included a real furrier's needle (not easily available in those days).

Here is the "before", a short coat of caracul fur. The caracul is an Asian sheep with a dark, curled fleece when young. The coat is old and very worn, with not much good fur left. The cape-stole is the perfect pattern for using small amounts of short-haired fur worth saving.

I love the cape-stole result, whether made of real fur or faux. The tie closing is a lovely touch.

1950s Refashion - From an Old Skirt to a Fresh New Jerkin

Sewn without a pattern, this refashion begins with a skirt that has a fringed edge and ends with a jaunty tweed jerkin.

And what is a jerkin? Originally worn only by men back in the 1500s through the 1800s, it is a sleeveless and collarless short jacket worn by men or women, often with extended shoulders. It is an item that seems to have morphed into the vest or sleeveless pullover in today's terms. In any case, in the 1940s and 1950s, they were popular, and typically considered for casual wear.

Check out how this refashion was done!

The jerkin is cut in a single piece from the seamless skirt, wide enough to extend beyond the shoulders and long enough to fit from front to back hip over the shoulders.

The piece was then cut across the shoulder line, with the back slightly longer than the front. Shoulder seams were sewn in a sloping line. The neckline was rounded and a short stand collar added. A neckline slit was made at center front and faced with scraps.

Darts were added at the waistline for a neater fit. Bias binding was stitched to the side edges, then turned under and hemmed.

The belt was created from the skirt waistband, which had the button and buttonhole removed, the open side and ends re-stitched, and a buckled added.

Nifty, neat fashion that looks cute to me!

1950s Refashion - Slacks Convert to a Sporty Stole!

A nifty stole with pockets in the end and a belt to keep it close - this is perhaps the easiest refashion to make, requiring no purchased pattern.

To make, begin by ripping apart a pair of worn of outdated slacks, using the side with little to no wear (in this case, the back side). Cut each leg on an angle, and then sew along the cutting lines (rounding off the point). New fabric was used to line the stole. Two patch pockets were cut from scraps and sewn to the ends of the stole to cover wear marks. The slacks waistband was re-stitched along the open side to create a belt that fits your waistline, and fastens with hooks-and-eyes.

This could be a fun item - you could play with the lining, using different colors and textures in the fabric. And the belt and pockets could be optional.   

1950s Refashion - From Outdated Topper to a Fresh Box Jacket

It's time another refashion from 1950! In this one, an old "topper" was converted into a fashionable box jacket by working with its existing lines.

As shown in the diagram, the box jacket was created from the topper by doing the following:

• The shoulder line was narrowed, lowered, and rounded
• Sleeve width was reduced
• Roll-back cuffs were made by turning under a wide hem and top-stitching the new sleeve edge
• Lining was cut off to meet the raw edge inside the sleeves
• Back fullness was taken in
• Patch pockets were cut from the bottom of the topper and the edge hemmed. Pockets were set at the hemline.

And here is the final result!

A belt adds the finishing touch! And don't forget your gloves. ;)

1950s Refashion - Change an Old Coat into a Pert Little Jacket!

Refashioning new clothes from old has been practiced for....well, a very long time. They were particularly important in the 30s and the 40s, but extended into the 50s. With the 1960s, this art or skill seemed to wane in popularity.

Now that refashioning is enjoying a resurgence, I thought it would be fun to show refashions of the past. I'll start with one from the October 1950 edition of Woman's Day magazine.

This refashion from 1950s shows how to take an old moth-eaten coat (shown in the upper right corner), and using a Woman's Day pattern, create this cute short "button-upper" jacket.

 

The refashion salvaged enough fabric from the old coat, using the lower part of the coat, to create the front and back panels of the jacket. The jacket pattern originally called for dolman sleeves. But since the coat panels were too narrow, the sleeves were pieced below the shoulder, with the seams disguised with welt stitching. Facings and covered buttons were made from leftover scraps. A very clever and cute result!

Refashionista! From Thrift Shop Pillow Sham to 50s Blouse

 Take one really big pillow sham from the Goodwill thrift shop:

 And a late 1950s pullover "overblouse" pattern - I opted for view 2:

I had to remove all seams and spread it out to see how much fabric I really had to work with. The tricky part was lining up the pockets so the dots were aligned and matched:

And the finished blouse! It's great alone as a summer top or with a turtleneck underneath for cooler weather wear. And note how those pockets are in perfect alignment! ;) The pattern is fairly boxy, so I added vertical contour darts in back for a better, less-loose fit.

It's not spectacular, but it IS versatile and a fun addition to my separates wardrobe - good enough for work or play!