Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - A Frock Trimmed with Self-Fabric Plaits

While this tip from Ruth Wyeth Spears and the 1920s describes a plaited (pleated) trimming for a "young girl's frock", I think this excellent tip would also apply to a frock for any age!

In her usual marvelous style, Ruth guides her home sewists with clear illustrations and precise steps. And note her tip for the novel feature of flipping the hem to the outside and trimming it in place with the plaiting (pleating). So clever and so simple - I love it!

Ruth recommends a crisp fabric as most effective, and says the sketch is of "changeable pink taffeta". I can picture this frock in pink taffeta - can you?

1946 Originator Sketch - Saddle Yokes Provide Smart Details

This Originator sketch features saddle yokes. I first discovered saddle yokes in vintage patterns and I must say that I find them a rather wonderful way to construct a dress or blouse. The saddle yoke combines the sleeve and the yoke into one piece.

This sketch features pleated sleeves with the saddles yokes, which looks very pretty. And the saddle yokes are also one-in-piece with center front bands or panels, with the edges trimmed with saddle stitches. Additional cleverness! I love how the center fronts extend into the skirts of the dresses - very smart details. :)

Spotted in a Shop Window - Brooks Brothers Separates

I seem to be in "blouse" mode. :) I spotted these fine separates in the shop window of Brooks Brothers in downtown Seattle. I love the neutral colors (very big this fall), and the classic, simple lines of the blouses and skirts. All items can be found on the Brooks Brothers website. Not to mention the patterns for them might also be found in your nearest online vintage pattern shop (ahem!). :)

What's not to love about this simply gray pencil skirt and the soft colors of the lovely silk floral blouse with a unique twisted collar?

This wonderful cotton skirt is pleated around the hips that release into soft, full folds. The simple design of the, dare I say it, foulard blouse tops the skirt perfectly.

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - Hemline Advice

In this tip, Ruth discusses "a hemline for every figure" - a brief but honest discussion that we all don't have slender figures nor trim legs and ankles. :) The use of pleats, overskirts, and underskirts are all successful approaches "for the woman who does not wear short dresses well" ("short" being a relative term, here).

A very useful tip when sewing your 1920s costumes!

Enduring Fashion for Girls - Charming 1930s Style Revisited in 1970s

A few weeks ago I posted this dress from the 1930s for a young girl. Butterick 5202 is completely adorable, with a center box pleat (front and back) framed by knife pleats, and a surplice button closing in the geometric yoke. Neat short and long sleeve options and matching panties are noteworthy, too. :)

And then just the other day, I happened to post Simplicity 9346 from the late 1970s in my Etsy shop. Not completely identical, but what striking similarities! And equally delightful. Pleats, yokes, off-set button closing, short & long sleeve options - it's a wonderful and worthy re-envisioning of the 1930s style. :)

From the Summer of 65 - A Dress to Get Away from It All

This lovely dress from 1965 looks cool and inviting - perfect for your summer get-away!

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - Add Overskirt with Knife Pleats to Your Frock

I love crisp pleats, so this tip from Ruth Wyeth Spears for home sewers in the 1920s is especially fun. Ruth describes how to add interest to a plain frock by adding groups of sharp knife pleats. She illustrates knife pleats in an "apron tunic" on the left and in the "flounces" that trim the frock on the right . Her directions are spot on, so let Ruth be your guide as you sew and let her drawings inspire you as you design your frock with pleats!

Blouses with Tucks - Then and Now

Spotted in the shop window of OSKA in downtown Seattle, this pleated and tucked blouse is superb. I have blouse-envy. :)

Tucks in blouses were particularly popular throughout the 1940s and into the 1950s. Here is a wonderful advertisement from March 1952 for blouses that have such beautiful details, with tucks the dominant feature. I love these blouses - such variety, and very different from modern blouses. So pretty! Note that many of these blouses are sheer, and rely on the perfect undergarments. ;)

1950s March Fashion - Neutral Tones Carry the Day

The pearly look of pale tones are featured in this collection of spring styles from March 1952!

 Pale beige flannel suit - a collarless neckline, pleated skirt, "domino" closing.

 A beautiful double-breasted coat of white fleece, lined with black silk, worn over a black silk suit.

 A double-breasted white fleece topper over a slim navy dress - perfect to wear spring or summer.

A neat round-collared suit in oatmeal tweed flecked with red and green, and accented with a big wool tassel.

Home Sewing Tips of the 1920s - Pleated Flounces are Smart Fashion

Do you want to add smart  accents to your afternoon frock? In this 1920 sewing tip from fashion columnist and sewing expert Ruth Wyeth Spears, you learn how to add tiers of tiny pleats (plaits) to your straight little frock.  Sewing machines in those days had an add-on tool that created these tiny pleats easily. Today there are other tools, such as pleating tape and the Perfect Pleater tool, for example.

 

Enjoy this inspiring tip!

Day Dress from June 1950

A pretty pleated spectator dress, with blouson bodice and breast patch pockets - perfect for every day! Note the perfect alignment of the lines in the fabric, from the matching of all horizontal lines to the pleating on vertical lines - very impressive. Courtesy of June 1950 edition of Women's Home Companion magazine.