History of Sewing - Exploring the Use of 1920s Foundation Linings

In reading about the use of foundation linings in the 1920s, such as the camisole lining (also called a bodice lining), the built-up lining (also called a plain-waist lining), and the close-fitting lining, there is a consistent mention of "attaching a skirt to the lining". This is particularly in the case of two-piece dresses which have tops of the overblouse style or a bloused effect, and where skirts (since they frequently rest at the hips or below) need a foundation of some kind to keep them in place.

Here is an image of a skirt attached to a long-waisted camisole lining, with blouse removed. This was common because so many of the popular blouses and sweaters were of the overblouse type. Attaching the skirt to a lining provided a nice straight line.

It was considered smart (especially if the skirt was not of a washable fabric) to have the lining made so that it could be removed and washed. Snaps on the bottom of the lining and the band of the skirt was a recommended method. Hooks-and-eyes were also a popular method. These methods allowed the lining to be removed and replaced with a minimum of effort. Often the foundation lining would be made in a similar color or trimmed with lace so that the overblouse could be sheer, or so that an overblouse could even be omitted when worn under a sweater.

Very often a pattern for a camisole lining was included with the pattern for the dress with which it was to be used. The lining can be easily cut without a pattern, however.

1920s "sports skirts" with the blouse worn "bloused"

Several years ago, The Vintage Dressmaker blogged about 1920s clothing construction and included a discussion of the foundation linings. My thanks to her for the following three images, which are from her most informative post.

 A two-piece dress from the 1920s:

The same dress with the blouse removed, showing a drop-waist camisole lining with the skirt attached.

This image is a built-up foundation waist lining with front closing.

 In her post, the Vintage Dressmaker links to the Detroit Historical Museum website (source for the following two images) as a further resource for examples of foundation linings.

When you remove the blouse of the two-piece dress (above), the built-up waist foundation lining is revealed. Note how the skirt is attached with hooks-and-eyes to the built-up waist lining.

Mysteries of 1920s foundation garments revealed! :) A major improvement over corsets, don't you think?

History of Sewing: 1920s Foundation Garments - Built-Up Linings

In 1920s fashion, a two-piece dress required a foundation for its skirt. Whether that foundation was a stay belt, a hip yoke, or a lining depended largely on the specific lines of the dress and the material of which it was made. The material of the dress also influenced the material of the foundation, both as to kind and color, for exact matching was much more important if the material is sheer than if it was not.

In this post, I examine the built-up lining more closely, which is more fitted than the camisole.

The built-up lining provides protection to a dress, particularly across the shoulders, or as a skirt foundation. It is also used as a foundation for a dress having a bloused effect.

The built-up lining can be changed in a number of ways to suit your needs:

• Length:  at normal waistline or at the hip (drop waistline)
• Neckline: To match the dress
• Center front opening: add or omit (if omitted, make neckline wide or deep enough so that it is easy to slip the lining over the head).
• Degree of fit: placement and length of darts or dart-tucks (as illustrated in the following images)

 

For the average figure, a built-up lining at normal waistline length requires 1-1/8 yards; hip-length requires 1-3/8 yards. You could use a "regulation lining" pattern or plain foundation waist pattern.

As you can see in the images above, the built-up lining is more fitted than a camisole, with vertical tucks, dart-tucks, or darts at the hemline and shoulders in varying lengths. A foundation belt can be attached to the lower edge.

 

If the lining is to serve as the foundation for a skirt, you would pin the skirt to the hemline of the lining, adjust the fit, basting as you remove the pins (in the image immediately above, this is step "c"). Then you would cover the joining with seam binding or a bias strip of silk, stitching it down along both edges. Alternatively, you could attach the skirt with snaps or hooks-and-eyes (for easy re-use and washing of the lining), if an overblouse is worn over the skirt. In my next post on this general  topic of foundation garments, I'll talk more about this. :)

History of Sewing - 1920s Foundation Garments - Waist Linings

In the 1920s, foundation garments were grouped into two main categories: waistline foundations and lining foundations. The topic of this post is to provide an overview of the lining foundations. And just to be clear, in general, foundation garments is not the same as lingerie, which is a different subject (although when we get into slips, the two subjects blur...).

Waist linings serve as both a protection to a dress (though particularly across the shoulders) as well as a means of holding a dress in its correct position, and as a foundation to which a skirt may be attached.

There are three general types of waist linings:

• Camisole or bodice lining
• Built-up or plain-waist lining
• Close-fitting lining

The camisole lining is simplest to make and was considered optimal for young girls and slender women (and also provides a dainty effect under sheer garments).

The built-up lining is preferable for the woman who is size 42 or larger.

The close-fitting lining is essential for dresses that fit closely on figures of all types, and for many types of dresses intended for the "stout" figure.

For one-piece dresses of sheer fabric (as opposed to two-piece dresses), the lining (regardless of type), should be extended to the full length of the dress as a slip, so as to eliminate a conspicuous break at the waistline.

I'll look more closely at the construction of these 1920s foundations garments in future posts.  Something to look forward to. :)