1920s Foundation Garments - The Tunic Dress Foundation Slip

Think "skirt to be worn with a tunic-length top" and you have the essence of the 1920s tunic-dress foundation slip. This type of foundation slip is needed for what is called a tunic dress (tunic dress example). The slip top is a modification of the camisole top, while the slip bottom is a wide band of the dress fabric deep enough to prevent the upper part of the foundation slip from showing when worn.

To create a tunic-dress foundation slip, start with a plain slip pattern with a camisole top. Take in excess fullness at the hip line with darts (as at a in the image below). Use French seams under the arms and finish the neckline with lace edging. Cut the slip at the length the dress fabric is to be attached. Sew the dress fabric to slip and hem. Voila! You have a tunic-dress foundation slip.

And this concludes my series on 1920s foundation garments! I hope you found it informative and useful. :)

1920s Foundation Garments - Coat Dress Foundation Slip

What makes a coat-dress foundation slip different from the other foundation slips (plain and tunic-dress) is the creation of sections of the slip using the dress material that can be viewed purposefully or inadvertently. The coat-dress foundation slip (illustrated below) is created for use with a coat dress that opens at the side front. By using dress fabric in a band at the bottom and up the side opening, it ensures that the skirt, when swinging open, does not show a contrasting material. Likewise, a vestee of the dress material is attached at the neckline so that it reveals the same fabric at the neckline.

When sewing a coat-dress foundation slip, start with the plain foundation slip (the small figure on the right). Outline the sections for the dress material on the plain slip pattern and then trace to other paper to create a pattern. The lower band replaces the slip lower section so seam allowances need to be added. But the vestee forms an additional layer on the foundation slip, attaching with snaps.

The coat-dress foundation slip can have a round neckline, a square neckline, even a camisole neckline, as needed. As always, adjust the slip to fit the requirements of the coat-dress.

1920s Foundation Garments - The Plain Foundation Slip

The plain foundation slip is really an elongation of the built-up waist lining, with pleats added at the sides over the hips for ease. When putting together your 1920s wardrobe, keep in mind that the plain foundation slip takes just under 3 yards for the average figure! Choose a firm but smooth fabric. If the dress fabric is sheer, a slip of the dress material is preferable.

The following image illustrates a typical 1920s plain foundation slip. This kind of slip can be made with a camisole top if the dress in which it is to be used requires it.

The upper part of the slip is fitted in the same manner as the built-up waist lining, with fitting in any excess waistline fullness by deepening the side seams.  French seams are used in the side seams from the armholes to the hips, which then release into pleats to the hemline. Stitch across the top of each pleat  (as shown) to secure the pleats. Armholes and neckline should be finished with narrow seams.

And that's it! With the exception of the side pleats, the plain foundation slip looks very similar to slips of later decades. Next in this series will be the coat-dress foundation slip!

History of Sewing: 1920s Foundation Garments - Foundation Slips

It's time to return to my series on 1920s foundation garments, and examine the remaining type of foundation garment, the foundation slip. Along with camisoles, the slip is perhaps the most enduring of foundation garments. There are three categories of foundation slips:

• Plain foundation slip (look familiar?)
• Coat-dress foundation slip
• Tunic-dress foundation slip

 Plain foundation slip

The foundation slip offers protection to the dress, or serves as a foundation to which some part of the dress may be attached (similar to the waist linings). Slips eliminate any unsightly break at the waistline under a dress of sheer material, and can intensify the color of the sheer dress.

In the 1920s (and beyond), the preferred slip was made of silk or rayon (rather than cotton, for example), which provides smoothness so the dress slips over them easily, and prevents the slip from crowding up over the knees. Some things don't change, eh?

In my next posts on this topic, I will provide more details about each foundation slip type. Stay tuned!