Friday, June 6, 2014

1950s Hair Dos - Pin Curls: The Front

In my first post on 1950s pin curls, pinning the sides was covered. Now it's time to look at pinning the front hair. According to the experts, the height of the hair in front will flatter different-shaped faces. The illustrations start with an image of pin curls set for no added height (figure 531). Each successive image illustrates more height than the preceding image, with figure 535 illustrating extreme height and side wave. So how high do you want to go? ;) Note the direction of the pin curls is not always the same from image to image.


 






Thursday, June 5, 2014

Before and After: 1950s Robe Goes 1940s in Sew For Victory 2014 Project

This inspiring "Before and After" is courtesy of Emileigh, who loves vintage fashion. She purchased a robe pattern from my shop for one of two items that she sewed for the "Sew for Victory 2.0 sew-along challenge. For those of you not familiar with this sew-along, it focuses on sewing 1940s fashion, so be sure to visit and look at all the wonderful 1940s outfits. But before you do, check out this wonderful sewing project - it's so impressive!

The Pattern: Vogue 9834 (1950s)



The Result: Deluxe 1940s plush robe trimmed with hand embroidery.


Looking so authentically 1940s, Emileigh Mimi did an amazing job converting Vogue 9834 into a 1940s plush robe, using a green panne velvet. She even embroidered her initials on the pocket - such beautiful handwork! And I adore the hand embroidery trimming the collar, cuffs, and back of the robe (yes, the back too!). The only key changes that Emileigh made to the pattern were to change the sleeves to bishop sleeves (beautifully gathered to slim cuffs), add shoulder pads to add width across the shoulders for a truer 1940s look, and add fringe to the ends of the tie belt.

You can read all the details about Emileigh's adventures with this sewing project on her blog, Flashback Summer. Be sure to also read about her other project for Sew for Victory 2014, which is equally fabulous. And be sure to follow her on Bloglovin. As an aside, don't you think she looks quite like Bette Davis, movie star of the 30s & 40s? I mean, really.



Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Home Economics Class in the 1950s - Hair & Beauty

Enjoy these pictures from the chapter on "Grooming" in a book on clothing for high school girls.

These girls enjoy brushing their hair at high school.

These high school girls are experimenting on each others' hair.

Notice the shapes on the blackboard. These assist in determining the best hair style for the shape of your face. (The aprons hanging on the wall are a nice touch! ;)

Applying hair cream provides luster and holds hair in place.

Tuesday, June 3, 2014

History of Sewing: 1920s Foundation Garments - Built-Up Linings

In 1920s fashion, a two-piece dress required a foundation for its skirt. Whether that foundation was a stay belt, a hip yoke, or a lining depended largely on the specific lines of the dress and the material of which it was made. The material of the dress also influenced the material of the foundation, both as to kind and color, for exact matching was much more important if the material is sheer than if it was not.

In this post, I examine the built-up lining more closely, which is more fitted than the camisole.

The built-up lining provides protection to a dress, particularly across the shoulders, or as a skirt foundation. It is also used as a foundation for a dress having a bloused effect.

The built-up lining can be changed in a number of ways to suit your needs:
  • Length:  at normal waistline or at the hip (drop waistline)
  • Neckline: To match the dress
  • Center front opening: add or omit (if omitted, make neckline wide or deep enough so that it is easy to slip the lining over the head).
  • Degree of fit: placement and length of darts or dart-tucks (as illustrated in the following images)





For the average figure, a built-up lining at normal waistline length requires 1-1/8 yards; hip-length requires 1-3/8 yards. You could use a "regulation lining" pattern or plain foundation waist pattern.

As you can see in the images above, the built-up lining is more fitted than a camisole, with vertical tucks, dart-tucks, or darts at the hemline and shoulders in varying lengths. A foundation belt can be attached to the lower edge.


If the lining is to serve as the foundation for a skirt, you would pin the skirt to the hemline of the lining, adjust the fit, basting as you remove the pins (in the image immediately above, this is step "c"). Then you would cover the joining with seam binding or a bias strip of silk, stitching it down along both edges. Alternatively, you could attach the skirt with snaps or hooks-and-eyes (for easy re-use and washing of the lining), if an overblouse is worn over the skirt. In my next post on this general  topic of foundation garments, I'll talk more about this. :)

Monday, June 2, 2014

Home Sewing Tips from the 1920s - Adding Scalloped Trim to Frocks!

I have to admit, this tip has to be one of the most versatile of Ruth Wyeth Spear's tips for 1920s home sewer. A scalloped edge on a garment is a favorite no matter what the decade. With Ruth's template you can change a garment to include scalloped edging painlessly. Sweet!

This tip also includes some general guidelines when dressing for shopping and the street - subdued style and moderate colors are the keys. :)



As always, click on the image to enlarge it for printing out the template, and just easier reading.

Sunday, June 1, 2014

Say Hello to June and Summer with Children's Fashion from 1932

For the wee lads and lassies are these sunny styles:

 328: A trouser suit for a young lad, with trousers, collar, tie, and cuffs contrasting with a shirt with tucks.

2723: A frock for a young girl, with a pretty collar and flowing pleats.

325: With fun details, this charming frock includes shorts.

330: Designed for girls on the grow, these pajamas have sophisticated style.

2720: A jumper with pleats on the sides and a pretty lace-trimmed blouse.

304: For the 'tween, this frock has wonderful style - princess seams zig-zag past the hips and release into inverted pleats.

310: With a high waistline, drop shoulders with puff sleeves, and a graceful flared skirt - this is sophisticated style!

Saturday, May 31, 2014

Farewell to May with Lovely Spring Frocks from the 1930s

Let's bid the merry month of May farewell with a handful of graceful and flattering tea-length frocks from 1932! 

 Dress 981 has a rather tailored air, with buttons at the hip, a smart center front inset, and a pleasing neckline treatment.

Dress 2551 is a simple and neat affair - pin tucks at the neckline and wrists add distinction.


Dress 2677 is slim, with crisp inverted pleats adding graceful flare to the skirt.

Dress 759 has slimming flare, front and back panels from neck to hem, and sweet bows as accents.

Dress 982 has a smart bodice closing, raglan sleeves, and princess seams the release into double inverted pleats.

Now if only we could still order these mail order patterns! :-)